The typical hair and hair follicles of those of African descent are tightly curled, thus producing hair that spirals. Black hair also typically has a larger diameter than Caucasian hair and retains less water, thus its relative “kinkiness." The many styling methods utilized on Black hair cause concern with hair loss. Black hair is very strong, fortunately so because Black hair styles cause a great deal of Stress on the hair and scalp.
For example, using a hair pick to pick the hair up to a bushy style is a very damaging process due to the constant pulling causing stress on the hair shaft as well as the follicle. In fact, combing Black hair in general can create high stress on Black hair and cause breakage, which perpetuates dryness. Conrowing and braiding are methods of hairstyling that pull the hair tight, and this can cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp resulting in hair loss. Braiding that results in the hair being pulled very tight can cause traumatic alopecia, a hair loss that is caused by trauma to the hair and scalp. Traumatic alopecia is usually reversible with proper hair care.
Hot combs and relaxers used to straighten hair can cause a great deal of heat and chemical damage to hair and scalp, which can also cause traumatic alopecia, and over time can cause permanent hair loss. This becomes especially true when the heat or chemically processed hair is pulled tight by rollers or a hot curling iron.
Hot oil conditioners are excellent for Black hair, as hot oil treatments contain proteins and polymers vital to repairing the hair cuticles. Hot oil treatments involve heating the oil and putting it into the hair and scalp, then covering the hair with a plastic cap to allow the oil to soak in. Follow the recommendations on the treatment you are using for the amount of time you should leave the treatment on the hair. This process can heal breakages and shinier stronger hair will be the result.
Consider that hair relaxers commonly used on Black hair contain lye or similar chemicals that break down the hair shaft. Left on beyond the recommended time, these chemicals would eat right through the hair and cause it to fall out in clumps. This is why these same products are used in products like Drano® to clean clogged drains which often are clogged by hair. No-lye relaxers are very popular today, mainly because it leads people to believe that the product is not caustic. This is far from the truth. The combination of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate are combined to form guanidine hydroxide, which could just as easily clean a sink. Repeated use of such products can cause some degree of hair loss, and if scarring occurs while using these chemicals, the hair loss can be permanent in that area of the scalp. One must ask themselves is it wise to place such caustic chemicals in the hair on a regular basis for the sake of desired appearance? The question must be answered by each individual, however the facts should be known.
There is little that can be done to alleviate this syndrome without changing the typical hairstyles of African Americans. There is a catch-22 concerning relaxing Black hair, since combing natural Black hair causes so much stress and breakage of hair, while chemicals cause so much harm to the hair and scalp as well. There are a few hair-relaxing products on the market that use chemicals and are somewhat less harsh than sodium hydroxide (lye) or its popular equivalent in “no-lye" relaxers: calcium hydroxide (quicklime) mixed with guanidine carbonate. One such product is called Natural-Laxer® and Sahara Clay® by Baka ProductsTM that has been on the market since 1990. This product is all natural and because it does not contain many of the harsh chemicals of commercial relaxers and actually contains only a finely ground plant called Daphne Gnidium and clay from Africa it is figured to be relatively safe. Of course this product does not straighten hair in most instances the same way as commercial relaxers, however it does tend to make Black hair more manageable. There is yet another product on the market that is reported to be 92-96% natural which is called Naturalaxer Kit In A Jar™ that does not require the applicant to comb through the hair during the application, which results in a lot less damage.
Of course the bottom line is once again, if you can leave your hair in its natural state then you will experience less stress and damage to the hair and thus prevent at least one cause of hair loss. There is a growing segment of the Black population that is becoming comfortable with wearing their hair in natural styles. One such style is dreadlocks. There are many rumors and myths concerning dreadlocks, as there is little proper information available concerning this style, and as with anything that is misunderstood many myths arise around it. Dreadlocks can and must be washed; otherwise they will smell badly like any other dirty hair. The best process to use to wash dreadlocks is to use a residue-free shampoo. Most commercially made shampoos leave residue and can cause hair not to lock, lending fuel to the rumor that hair had to be dirty to form dreadlocks. Clean hair actually locks much better than dirty hair, as dirt is a residue in itself that will inhibit hair from locking. For best results one should use a fragrance free, conditioner free shampoo. Dreadlocks do not react well to oily and greasy substances, yet there are many good substances that are on the market today that will assist you in forming dreadlocks.
Dreadlocks are formed through a process, not simply by not combing or brushing the hair. Generally, one should start with hair about two inches in length, and the hair should be separated into even squares of hair and twisted gently together using a bonding or gel substance. Many use natural beeswax containing no petroleum, while others use loc and twist gels specifically formulated for locks. Once the hair is separated and twisted into small locks, it is important that they are left alone and allowed to bond naturally. The length of time it will take to lock will depend on the coarseness of your hair, but one can normally expect to wait several months before locks begin to form. While the hair is locking, it will need to be washed. Here is where washing should be extended for a while if possible, so that the hair can be allowed to lock for two weeks to about a month without manipulation. When you do wash your hair, use a stocking cap or “do-rag", and low-pressure water to make sure that the newly forming locks do not come loose. It will be necessary to rinse for a much longer time than you normally do, because of the lower pressure of the water and the lack of direct manipulation of your hair with your hands. The water is good for your hair and locking process, so this is not a problem. It is also imperative as indicated before that you use a shampoo that does not contain a conditioner and leaves as little residue as possible. A little research on your part will be necessary here; your health food store should contain a variety of natural shampoos. Have a skilled professional or a friend re-twist the hair gently, reapplying the twist gel or beeswax that you used previously. Repeat this process every two weeks to a month, the longer you are able to wait the better, and within a few months your hair will begin to lock.
Again, if you have a fine grade of hair rather than a kinky grade of hair, a beautician skilled at forming locks (“locktitian") or a friend who is very familiar with the hairstyle should be consulted. Even though dreadlocks are mainly a hairstyle for Blacks, there are other races that have people that enjoy the hairstyle. In general, it tends to be a style of hair that in the long run will give the hair and scalp needed rest from the rigors of chemical and heat treatments and rigorous combing and brushing, and therefore can contribute to longer life for your hair.
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Male Hair Loss Products and Treatments.
For many men, losing hair is something will have to be faced as part of the aging process. If this is happening to you, you are not alone, as a simple walk down the street will show you. About 25 per cent of men begin losing hair before they reach 30 and two thirds before the age of 60. Sometimes men can begin losing hair in their teens and can reach their early twenties with very little, if any, hair left on the crown of their head. Usually, however, the hair loss is gradual, developing over a period of twenty to thirty years.
The most common cause of hair loss in men is genetic:
Androgenetic alopecia (male pattern baldness) has a characteristic pattern of hair loss it begins with a slight recession at the front hairline and is followed by thinning on the crown of the head. The hair above the ears and at the nape of the neck is unaffected. This hair loss results from a complex chemical reaction when the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase converts the testosterone in the system into DHT or dihydrotestosterone. The hair follicles are genetically predisposed to be oversensitive to the DHT and become smaller and smaller with time, leading to the eventual hair loss.
If you are suffering from patchy hair loss you may be suffering from another form of alopecia:
Alopecia Areata is an extremely common condition and will affect 1% to 2% of the population at some point in their lives. Most sufferers are children and young adults (below 40 years old), though it can affect people of all ages. The hair loss is sudden and manifests itself in small, smooth-skinned patches that are likely to gradually widen with time. It can also affect the sufferer’s nails, giving them a pitted, ridged or brittle appearance. The exact cause is still unknown, although current theories include an auto-immune disease, stress or suggest a genetic basis. If the hair loss progresses until all the scalp hair is lost this is known as or alopecia universalis if all the body hair is lost as well.
Hair loss can also result from a scalp problem. Inflammation of the scalp leads to production of superoxide, which causes hair shedding and will lead to diffuse hair loss.
These are just a few of the reasons for hair loss. It order to treat hair loss effectively we would recommend that you have a diagnosis made as soon as possible by one of our experienced trichologists. Stress can be an aggravator in almost all cases of hair loss and an accurate diagnosis will always, at the very least, take some of the stress away from you.
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What Is Alopecia and Do I Have It?
Alopecia is the loss of hair from the scalp, face, body or all three. It can vary in appearance from tiny random bald patches to total baldness. Although the condition does not cause the sufferer any physical pain, it can be the source of deep emotional distress.
Approximately forty-six types of Alopecia exist. Most of them are a symptom of illness or changes in body chemistry. Fortunately, most of them are curable and with the right treatment, hair nearly always grows back. Diagnosis is essential, as this will give a very strong indication of the prognosis or likely outcome.
Alopecia can be:-
Congenital - Acquired from birth
Genetic - Inherited from parents
Acquired - Caused by some outside factor
Iatrogenic - Drug induced
Cicatricial - Follicles destroyed by scarring
Post natal - Following childbirth
Traction - From continuous pulling
Alopecia Areata
A common condition, where normal hair growth is interspersed with totally bald, round or oval patches. It often begins in childhood and reoccurs throughout a person's lifetime, but rarely affects the elderly.
In most cases, the condition is confined to one or two spots, but it can spread and become Alopecia Totalis where the entire scalp becomes bald.
Alopecia Universalis is an even more distressing, but rare, condition where the hair is lost on the head, face and body.
What causes Alopecia Areata?
The immune system, which fights off viruses, bacteria and foreign tissue, turns and attacks the hair follicles stopping hair growth.
Although there isn't one specific cause, but there are number of theories:
Trophoneurotic - Relating to nerve damage or change.
Genetic Influences – There is a genetic link with being prone to autoimmune diseases. Alopecia Areata sometimes occurs in people whose family members have suffered from diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, thyroid disease, systemic lupus erythematosus, pernicious anemia or Addisons disease.
One in five people with the disease, have a family member who has had Alopecia Areata. And if the relation lost their first patch of hair before age 30, the risk to other family members is greater.
Atopic States - Alopecia Areata does seem to be more common in those people prone to eczema, asthma and nasal allergies.
Emotional Stress - This is thought to frequently trigger Alopecia Areata and its influence has long been underestimated by the medical professions.
Other conditions associated with Alopecia Areata
Alopecia Areata often affects the finger and toe, nails. They may show longitudinal ridges or pitting of the nail plate. The sufferer may also be more prone to eye disorders and Vitiligo, where patches of skin lose their pigment.
How the Condition Progresses
The bald patches sometimes form very rapidly. As they spread, the hair bulbs (papillae) fail to produce normal hair before they stop working. This causes the hair to be finer just above the scalp at which point the hair breaks off.
If you examined these hairs under a microscope, you'd find that instead of being round/oval they are shaped like an exclamation mark. As this type are only found around the perimeter of a rapidly growing patch, they are a clear indicator that the patch is still growing. An absence of exclamation mark hairs, shows that the patch has reached its full size.
This form of Alopecia predominantly attacks dark pigmented hairs, white hairs are usually not affected.
If the amount of hair loss is minimum and the patches are fairly small, hair re-growth will often start in the centre of the patch within a period of three months. White hair often grows back in its place, but normally regains its real colour within a few weeks. If the problem is continuing, old patches will re-grow as new patches form.
In rare cases, the patches continue to spread and multiply until they merge into each other eventually leading to total loss of hair on the scalp.
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